Patek Philippe
Watches

New Gondolo Calendario 5135
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5135 Gondolo Calendario, with an Annual Calendar and
a moon-phase display is an example of how the company's engineers and
watchmakers continue to evolve technology in a step-by-step fashion. The
patented Annual Calendar function, a proprietary Patek Philippe development, was
introduced in 1996 in the first wristwatch that automatically advances the
month, day and date, and only requires a manual correction once a year on March
1. In fact, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar was voted "Watch of the Year"
shortly after its introduction. Connoisseurs were particularly delighted that
the Annual Calendar mechanism is based chiefly on wheels and pinions and
requires virtually no levers. This holds true with Ref. 5135, but this watch
also features numerous modifications that attest to the possibility of continued
advancement.
Ref. 5135 Gondolo Calendario, showcases several technical innovations related to
the indications: It is the first Patek Philippe watch that displays the date,
day and month in three apertures arranged on an arc between 10 and 2 o'clock.
The subsidiary dial at 6 o'clock has a 24-hour scale and a moon-phase display.
The tonneau-shaped case underscores the ongoing popularity of the Art Deco
style.
The
face of this watch conceals its most significant innovations: The calibre 324
self-winding mechanical movement ticks at a frequency of 4 Hertz (equivalent to
28,800 vibrations per hour).
This achieves a greater degree of accuracy because
it generates a more constant balance amplitude than 21,600 oscillations per
hour. Because an increase of frequency reduces the power reserve, Patek Philippe
engineers decided to boost the efficiency of the self-winding system. The 21K
gold rotor was enlarged by 0.1 mm in radius and by 0.08 mm in thickness, with
the additional mass providing extra winding energy.
A further enhancement involved the legendary Gyromax balance wheel for which
Patek Philippe was granted patents in 1948 and 1951. The legacy two-spoke
construction with eight movable poising weights (masselots) has been replaced
with a four-spoke balance wheel with four masselots. The new design improves the
torsional rigidity in the plane of rotation, and the smaller number of masselots
facilitates poising without any trade-off in regulating precision. In addition,
the poising weights were recessed into the balance wheel rim to improve the
wheel's overall aerodynamic behaviour.
A closer look at the microcosm of this movement reveals that the wheels in the
calibre 324 movement have a new toothing profile. This assures constant force
transmission for different wheel mesh depths, a circumstance that positively
impacts the amplitude of the balance and the rate accuracy of the watch.
The calibre 324 movement stands out with further technical modifications such as
the bipartite minute train bridge; the asymmetric date train; an extra-thick,
reinforced winding wheel, and optimized, minimum-friction pivots for the wheel
arbors. Ongoing refinements like these further improve the precision,
reliability and longevity of Patek Philippe timepieces.
The Patek Philippe calibre 324 is meticulously finished to meet the
specifications of the coveted Geneva Seal, the hallmark of quality for
mechanical timepieces. Every steel part is carefully beveled and has smoothed
surfaces, polished angles, and burnished flanks. The wheels have polished
recesses and spokes that are angled on both sides. The entire movement is
breathtakingly beautiful: along with the enlarged, high-rigidity Gyromax balance
wheel, it features bridges intricately decorated with Geneva striping and a 21K
gold rotor embellished with circular graining and a Calatrava cross. A
sapphire-crystal back allows this new masterpiece to be readily admired. Ref. 5135 Gondolo Calendario is a double chef d'oeuvre: its inner life is as
captivating as its outward appearance is seductive. The construction of the
distinctive case is highly unusual. The case has a striking tonneau silhouette
that extends, elegantly curved, to the strap lugs, while the bezel is
pillow-shaped. Thus, Ref. 5135 is a homage to the Patek Philippe tradition in
form watches and to the Art Deco period in which the tonneau, or barrel, case
first emerged. The case of the new watch is crafted from 18K yellow or white
gold and has a screwed sapphire-crystal back that guarantees water resistance to
25 meters. It is worn with a hand-stitched alligator strap with a buckle in 18K
yellow or white gold to match the case.
The yellow gold model has a silvery opaline dial, while the dial of the white
gold model is silvery or slate grey. Contrasting surface finishes create a
two-tone effect that can be discreet or eye-catching, depending on the light.
The centre of the dial inside the minute scale with the circular guilloché
pattern appears slightly recessed, while the outer zone has a satinized sunburst
pattern. Hours are indicated with Breguet-style numerals at 3 and 9 o'clock and
with applied yellow or white gold arrow hour markers. Matching gold dauphine
hands specify the hours and minutes; a small gold feuille hand indicates the
hours on the 24-hour dial. This subsidiary dial also incorporates the remarkably
accurate moon phase display. It deviates from the true lunar orbit by only one
day in 122 years. The calendar displays have been modified: The date is now
indicated in a gold-framed aperture at 12 o'clock. Small apertures between 10
and 11 o'clock and 1 and 2 o'clock show the day of the week and the month.
Patek Philippe's Ref. 5135 Gondolo Calendario, is a new interpretation of the
Annual Calendar that blends the best of tradition with striking innovation. With
its attractive shape, useful complication and sophisticated horological
technology, it has all the assets that make a genuine classic.
Further Reading
Patek PhilippeComplicated Wrist WatchesGiorgio Gregato, Paolo De VecchiFull details at:
Greenwich Book
Gondolo Calendario
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